A contract manufacturer rejects your 200 kg lot of FD&C Blue No. 1 aluminum lake. The chemistry is fine. The reason on the rejection notice is that the Certificate of Analysis (CoA) shows no FDA certification lot number, and the filler will not run an uncertified certifiable color into a drug coating. That single missing field stalls a production slot, and the replacement lot is four weeks out.
That failure is not a chemistry problem. It is a color-additive classification problem, and it is the fault line that separates the two families this guide covers: synthetic FD&C and D&C colors on one side, mineral pigments like mica and titanium dioxide on the other. Buy them as if they were interchangeable powders and you will mis-specify a CoA, mis-price a hazard, or put a colorant where the regulation does not allow it.
What these colorants are
Two regulatory buckets sit underneath every cosmetic, drug, and food color you source. The Color Additive Amendments of 1960 drew the line, and FDA has maintained it since. Certifiable colors are the synthetic organics: FD&C Blue No. 1 aluminum lake (CAS 68921-42-6, Colour Index 42090) and D&C Red No. 7 calcium lake (CAS 5281-04-9, CI 15850:1) are typical. They are listed in 21 CFR Part 74 and require FDA batch certification. Exempt colors are the minerals: mica (CAS 12001-26-2, CI 77019) and titanium dioxide (CAS 13463-67-7, CI 77891) sit in 21 CFR Part 73 and skip per-batch certification. Both buckets are regulated; only one carries a lot number.
The prefix on a certifiable color is a permission statement, not branding. “FD&C” means the color is cleared for food, drugs, and cosmetics. “D&C” narrows that to drugs and cosmetics, with food removed. “Ext. D&C” narrows it further to externally applied drugs and cosmetics, off the table for anything ingested or used near mucous membrane. Read the prefix on the spec sheet before you read the shade, because it tells you, in two or three letters, where the law lets the color go.
Grade landscape: what you are buying
The catalog terms matter on a purchase order. A “dye” is the water-soluble color. A “lake” is that same dye precipitated onto an insoluble substrate, usually alumina, so it behaves as a dispersible pigment. Minerals like mica and titanium dioxide are pigments by nature, coloring through light scatter and interference instead of dissolving. The table below maps the four reference materials a beauty or pharma buyer meets most often.
| Colorant | CAS | Colour Index | Form | FDA class | Cleared for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake | 68921-42-6 | 42090 | insoluble lake on alumina | certifiable (21 CFR 74.101) | food, drug, cosmetic |
| D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake | 5281-04-9 | 15850:1 | insoluble pigment | certifiable (21 CFR 74.1307) | drug, cosmetic only |
| Mica | 12001-26-2 | 77019 | platy silicate mineral | exempt (21 CFR 73.2496) | drug, cosmetic; food via pearlescent listing |
| Titanium dioxide | 13463-67-7 | 77891 | white opacifying pigment | exempt (21 CFR 73.575) | food (≤1%), drug, cosmetic |
The functional split drives the buy. FD&C Blue No. 1 as a dye dissolves in water at about 30 mg/mL and melts with decomposition near 283 °C (PubChem CID 19700, 2026); its lake form is insoluble and will not migrate, which is why coated tablets, pressed powders, and lipstick specify the lake, not the dye. Mica and titanium-coated mica deliver pearl and interference effects; titanium dioxide alone delivers opacity and SPF. If a formula needs a clean wash of transparent color, you want a soluble dye. If it cannot tolerate bleed into adjacent layers, you want a lake or a mineral.
Two grade questions decide most colorant purchases. First, dye or lake: the same FD&C Blue No. 1 ships as a soluble dye for water-based systems and as an alumina lake for anhydrous or pressed systems, and the two are not substitutes on a line. Second, the substrate and shade depth of the lake itself, since lake strength depends on how much certified dye sits on the alumina, and a weaker lake forces a higher loading to hit target shade. For minerals, the grade question is particle size and coating: a finer mica reads as soft satin, a coarser platelet reads as high sparkle, and a titanium-coated mica reads as pearl or interference depending on the coating thickness. Specify the grade, not just the color name.
| Property | FD&C dye (Blue No. 1) | FD&C / D&C lake | Mica and TiO2 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water solubility | ~30 mg/mL (PubChem) | insoluble | insoluble; TiO2 <1 mg/mL (NTP, 1992) |
| Coloring mechanism | dissolves and stains | dispersed pigment particles | light scatter and interference |
| Thermal behavior | decomposes ~283 °C | tracks the parent dye | TiO2 decomposes ~3380 °F; mica melts ~1500 °C |
| FDA certification | per batch (Part 74/80) | per batch (Part 74/80) | none (Part 73) |
| Typical placement | beverages, water-based | tablet coatings, lipstick, eyeshadow | pearlescents, opacity, sunscreen |
How do you read a color-additive CoA?
A color CoA is where most sourcing disputes start. Read it against the listing, not against a generic purity number. These are the fields to question.
- Certification lot number (certifiable colors only). For any Part 74 color, an FDA lot number must appear. No number means the batch was never certified and cannot be used in a regulated product. A mica or titanium dioxide CoA will not have one, and that absence is correct for an exempt color.
- Total color content. D&C Red No. 7 must assay not less than 90 percent total color under 21 CFR 74.1307. A figure below that is a fail, not a negotiation.
- Heavy metals. The same listing caps lead at 20 ppm, arsenic at 3 ppm, and mercury at 1 ppm. For minerals, check the Part 73 listing limits, because natural mica carries trace metals from its ore.
- Subsidiary colors and intermediates. FD&C Blue No. 1 limits subsidiary colors to 6.0 percent, leuco base to 5 percent, and water-insoluble matter to 0.2 percent (21 CFR 74.101). High subsidiary color shifts shade lot to lot.
- Volatiles and salts. FD&C Blue No. 1 caps the sum of volatile matter, chlorides, and sulfates at 15.0 percent. A high number means you paid for water and salt, not color.
- Particle size and dispersion (lakes and minerals). Lakes and pearlescent micas behave by particle geometry. Ask for the size distribution; it governs hiding power, sparkle, and grit on the lip.
A CoA that lists a generic “purity 99%” with none of the listing-specific limits above is a warning by itself. The 21 CFR specifications are written per color, so a credible supplier reports against them by name. If the document reads like a commodity CoA rather than a color-additive CoA, treat the lot as unqualified until the missing fields arrive.
Packaging, handling, and the dust hazard
These are dry powders, and the live hazard is inhalation, not flammability. PubChem records an H335 (may cause respiratory irritation) signal on mica, with repeated-exposure organ-damage statements (H372/H373) in the aggregated classifications. Titanium dioxide powder carries an H351 (suspected of causing cancer) flag in PubChem’s GHS data for the inhalable fraction. Specify lined fiber drums or sealed bags, keep an SDS on file for each lot, and brief receiving on dust control and respiratory protection before the first tote opens.
Storage matters more for the minerals than the synthetics. Mica and titanium dioxide are insoluble and thermally stable, so the risk is caking and contamination, not decomposition; keep them dry, sealed, and off the floor. The synthetic dyes and lakes are light- and heat-sensitive in use, and FD&C Blue No. 1 decomposes near 283 °C, so store away from heat sources and segregate shades to prevent cross-contamination of a certified lot.
Documentation travels with the certifiable colors. A Part 74 lake should arrive with its CoA, its FDA certification lot number, and a current Safety Data Sheet (SDS). For exempt minerals, you still want the CoA and SDS, plus the supplier’s statement that the grade meets the relevant Part 73 listing. Confirm whether the material is the food, drug, or cosmetic grade, because the listing section, and the allowed use, changes with it.
What drives landed cost and lead time
Avoid anchoring on a single price-per-kilo. For certifiable colors, the batch-certification step adds an FDA review and fee before the lot can clear, so a non-certified offer that looks cheap may not be usable at all. Titanium-dioxide-coated pearlescent micas cost more than uncoated cosmetic mica because of the deposition and calcination step that builds the interference layer. Synthetic FD&C dye and lake pricing tracks petrochemical intermediate feedstock; titanium dioxide tracks ore and chloride-route capacity. Build your model around the grade and the certification status, then ask each supplier to quote the specific listing grade you need rather than a generic shade.
Lead time follows the same logic. An exempt mineral can usually ship on the supplier’s standard cycle, because no regulatory hold sits between manufacture and release. A certifiable color carries the certification step before it can move, so a lot that has not yet been certified, or a supplier waiting on a certification result, can add weeks you did not plan for. When you qualify a new source for an FD&C or D&C color, ask whether the offered lot is already certified or still pending, and treat “pending” as a schedule risk, not a formality.
Regulatory check: certification, naming, and global rules
The certification mechanism is the part buyers underestimate. Under 21 CFR 74.101, every batch of FD&C Blue No. 1 “shall be certified in accordance with regulations in part 80.” In practice the manufacturer submits a sample of each batch to FDA, which analyzes it against the listed specification and assigns a certification lot number. Only then can that batch be used in a regulated product. The number on your CoA traces back to that FDA action; it is the proof the lot passed, not a supplier-assigned code.
Exempt colors carry no certification number, but they are not unconditional. Each Part 73 listing fixes an identity, a purity profile, and the categories of use, and several colors carry use limits or restrictions, such as ceilings on the amount in food or limits on application near the eye. The absence of a certification lot number on a mica or titanium dioxide CoA is correct; the absence of a stated Part 73 conformance is not.
Global divergence is the live risk for any brand that ships across borders. Titanium dioxide stays listed for US food at up to 1 percent (21 CFR 73.575), yet the EU removed E171 from its food-additive list in 2022 after EFSA could no longer rule out genotoxicity. PubChem’s aggregated GHS data also carries an H351 (suspected of causing cancer) statement on the inhalable titanium dioxide powder. None of that bars the US food, drug, or cosmetic uses that remain listed, but it does mean a single global specification will not clear every market. Map each color to the regulation of the country where the finished product is sold.
Which colorant can you use where?
This is the question that recaptures a rejected lot before it ships. The clearances are not symmetric across food, drugs, and cosmetics.
- FD&C Blue No. 1 is the broad case: cleared for food, drug, and cosmetic use as a certified color (21 CFR 74.101 and its drug and cosmetic subsections). Its lake extends that into anhydrous and coated systems.
- D&C Red No. 7 is the trap. The “D&C” prefix means drugs and cosmetics only; it is not a food color. In drugs the combined D&C Red 6 and Red 7 load is capped at 5 mg per daily dose (21 CFR 74.1307). In cosmetics it is allowed under good manufacturing practice, which is why it appears in lipstick.
- Mica is listed for cosmetics at 21 CFR 73.2496, and mica-based pearlescent pigments (titanium or iron salts deposited on mica, then calcined) carry their own listings for food (21 CFR 73.350) and drugs (21 CFR 73.1350); in cosmetics the pearl effect rides on the separately listed mica (73.2496) and titanium dioxide (73.2575).
- Titanium dioxide is the divergence case. The US keeps it listed for food at up to 1 percent (21 CFR 73.575) and for drugs and cosmetics, while the EU removed E171 from its food-additive list in 2022. A product sold on both continents needs region-specific clearance, not one global spec.
Use cases across RawSource verticals
In beauty and personal care, the mix is deliberate: certified lakes for the saturated, bleed-free reds and blues in lipstick and pressed powder, mica and titanium-coated mica for pearl and shimmer, and titanium dioxide for opacity and physical SPF. Pharmaceutical formulators lean on FD&C lakes for tablet and capsule coatings, where a soluble dye would migrate during the aqueous coating step. Food and beverage buyers can use FD&C Blue No. 1 and US titanium dioxide within their limits, but D&C Red No. 7 is off the table for ingestion. Coatings, plastics, and personal-care all draw on the same four materials with different listing constraints.
For the underlying chemistry and grade options, the relevant product pages are FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Salt, mica, and titanium dioxide, all grouped under the colorants category. If your formula is moving away from synthetics, the trade-offs are covered in our guide to natural colorants in cosmetics and in colorants for plastics, resins, and ceramics. For the certifiable-versus-exempt distinction in the wider catalog, see how we frame chemical grades and personal-care sourcing.
How RawSource supplies these colors
If your last lot stalled on a missing certification number or a sub-90-percent total-color result, the fix is to specify the listing grade up front and require the FDA lot number on the CoA before release. RawSource quotes against the named 21 CFR grade, supplies certifiable lakes with their certification documentation and exempt minerals with their Part 73 conformance statement, and matches dye-versus-lake selection to whether your system can tolerate bleed.
Specifications, limits, and listings cited here are drawn from the named 21 CFR sections (eCFR, accessed June 2026) and from PubChem. Verify the current regulatory text and your supplier’s CoA against the grade you are buying before release.
Frequently asked questions
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Sources & methodology
Figures are RawSource sourcing data unless attributed to a named source. Regulatory citations are current as of publication. Chemical identities verified by CAS number against the RawSource catalog.