Skincare — Process Challenge

Cosmetic Emulsifiers & Stabilizers for Stable Creams

Emulsifier-system / HLB optimization for stable W/O and O/W creams that pass extended stability protocols
Updated Jun 2026
Solution Approach

RawSource supplies the base chemicals that go into these programs. We can help with product selection, grade matching, and sourcing from multiple origins for supply security.

Typical Formulation Workflow
1
Concept & Claim Definition
Define the product type, sensory and claim targets, and the regulatory and label framework (INCI, regional cosmetic regulations, certifications).
2
Ingredient Selection
Match emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, actives, preservatives, or rheology modifiers to the formula, skin-feel, and compatibility window.
3
Bench Formulation
Build and stabilize the emulsion or system at the bench, checking pH, viscosity, preservative efficacy, and aesthetics.
4
Stability & Compliance Validation
Run stability and compatibility testing, confirm preservative efficacy, and finalize the INCI, CoA, and documentation.
Recommended Chemistries (6)
Glyceryl stearate
CAS 31566-31-1
Esters
Self-emulsifying base for creams and lotions
Low-HLB self-emulsifier that builds a lamellar liquid-crystal gel network at the O/W interface, immobilizing droplets so they can't coalesce
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Ceteareth-40 Solid
CAS 68439-49-6
Specialty Additives
Nonionic emulsifier for O/W emulsions
High-HLB (~17) nonionic that pairs with a low-HLB co-emulsifier to hit the required HLB of the oil phase, lowering interfacial tension for a fine, stable O/W droplet population
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Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
CAS 176429-87-1
Polymers & Resins
Pemulen-type emulsion stabilizer and thickener
Pemulen-type crosspolymer that builds yield value in the water phase, suspending oil droplets in a weak gel so creaming and phase separation are arrested
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Ceto-Stearyl Alcohol
CAS 67762-27-0
Specialty Additives
Waxy emollient and viscosity builder
Fatty-alcohol consistency factor that swells the lamellar network with the primary emulsifier, raising viscosity and locking in the emulsion
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Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80), FCC Food Grade
CAS 9005-65-6
Surfactants
Nonionic emulsifier for oils and lipophilic actives
Nonionic emulsifier (HLB ~15) for lipophilic oils and oil-soluble actives, used to fine-tune the blend HLB toward the oil-phase requirement
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Disodium EDTA (Food Grade)
CAS 139-33-3
Specialty Additives
Metal chelant for formula stability and preservative efficacy
Sequesters trace Ca/Mg/Fe that catalyze rancidity and destabilize anionic emulsifiers, protecting the emulsion through accelerated-stability testing
Physical Description: White odorless solid; White odorless crystals   Appearance: White crystalline powder   Melting Point: MP: 242 °C /EDTA disodium dihydrate/
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