Agents conditionneurs cationiques et silicones à fonction amino pour les soins capillaires et cutanés — behentrimonium et cetrimonium chloride, Polyquaternium-7 et -10, amodimethicone et silicone quaternium-22.
Les agents conditionneurs sont des matières cationiques et polymères qui se déposent sur les cheveux et la peau, classées en INCI comme agents conditionneurs capillaires et antistatiques. The family splits three ways: small cationic quats (behentrimonium and cetrimonium chloride), cationic polymers (the polyquaterniums), and amino-functional silicones (amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22). Each carries a positive charge that binds to the negatively charged surface of keratin, which is what makes the class substantive through a rinse.
Substantivity is the working property, and it sets the central trade-off. Small quats such as cetrimonium chloride deposit quickly and rinse cleaner, while heavier quats like behentrimonium chloride and cationic polymers (Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10) build a more durable film-forming deposit that can accumulate over repeated use. Specify the lighter quats where a clean rinse-off matters; specify the polymers where a durable deposit on the fiber is the goal.
Amino-functional silicones are the substantive silicone option in this family. Amodimethicone and silicone quaternium-22 carry amine or quaternary groups that adsorb to the higher-charge regions of weathered fiber, unlike a plain silicone fluid that coats uniformly. Pair an amidoamine such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine with an acid to form the cationic species in place, a cost-controlled route for rinse-off conditioner bases.
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